About Me

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Sacramento, California, United States
so salty pieces of coral from surfing Hawaii in the 60's and 70's getting reef pounded living in my body fall through my skin from time to time!

sailing to Oahu

Jimi Hendrix was playing on Oahu. I had never sailed. Surfed Mexico, California, Hawaii! Aw, how hard could it be to sail 90-110 miles from Kauai to Oahu? Piece of cake, right? Remember it was the 60's! This is so bad. We thought we were looking at Kaiena Point,Ohau, knowing we weren't going to make the concert! But at least we were in site of Oahu-wrong! Coy, who had never sailed before, me,who had never sailed before, jeff and Abbott etc. We were looking at the sleeping giant on Kauai! We had done three-sixty's in the night! We sailed on the only tri-marran I've ever sailed on ( except later ) in my life, missed the concert! It was at the Waikiki Shell Ampitheater ( Moon eclipsed . We finally made Nawilwili Harbor! The Skipper tried to give us his boat saying, " It's trying to kill me"! We watched him go stark raving mad not even realising that had we got caught in the channel current we were on our way to Japan! Remember it was the 60's and we were going to see Hendrix. I left out some of the good stuff but I will make up for it later!

Sunday, November 14, 2010

Bad Ass

      I am thrilled to have surfed many famous and at times undiscovered waves with at other times undiscovered friends.  Friendsip is earned, then given!  To ride a wave that had travelled so far to announce itself on a land mass where someone with a surfboard just happened to be waiting, with knowledge to ride this phonomenah!.....Oh!  What a joy....?  How many people know Jeff Hay?  I do.  More people know Joey Cabell and Jimmy Lucas!  Who knows  Robert Stay!  I know them all because they allowed me into a very special world called." Surfing",  Bunker Spreckles, I liked  hugely!  He was generous to a fault.  He loved rideing waves.
       Music, some drugs and an extreme desire to rip the shit out of a virgin wave that had traveled so far to break on a foriegn shore!.  Every wave, unique, original and just yours.  I can place, easily, one hundred names on this paper right now!  Many of them you may know.  Many you may not!  But I do and I will not forget the men who rode waves with me!  The surfing community is like no other, even sailing!  I will never regret dedicating my life to the ocean and riding with her, allowing my devine Mother to shape my heart and gifting me into an eternal understanding of life and love itself!  The very nature of love is written in the footprints left by your feet quickly nuetralized by the ebb and flow of the tide as you watch the sunrise as if it was the very first time!   Which it is!

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