About Me

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Sacramento, California, United States
so salty pieces of coral from surfing Hawaii in the 60's and 70's getting reef pounded living in my body fall through my skin from time to time!

sailing to Oahu

Jimi Hendrix was playing on Oahu. I had never sailed. Surfed Mexico, California, Hawaii! Aw, how hard could it be to sail 90-110 miles from Kauai to Oahu? Piece of cake, right? Remember it was the 60's! This is so bad. We thought we were looking at Kaiena Point,Ohau, knowing we weren't going to make the concert! But at least we were in site of Oahu-wrong! Coy, who had never sailed before, me,who had never sailed before, jeff and Abbott etc. We were looking at the sleeping giant on Kauai! We had done three-sixty's in the night! We sailed on the only tri-marran I've ever sailed on ( except later ) in my life, missed the concert! It was at the Waikiki Shell Ampitheater ( Moon eclipsed . We finally made Nawilwili Harbor! The Skipper tried to give us his boat saying, " It's trying to kill me"! We watched him go stark raving mad not even realising that had we got caught in the channel current we were on our way to Japan! Remember it was the 60's and we were going to see Hendrix. I left out some of the good stuff but I will make up for it later!

Friday, October 22, 2010

Last Voyage

        When I was a youth, I thought great thoughts.  I had desires and dreams that weren't quite formulated
into substantial thoughts or directions of purpose that would establish the immaturity and immortality of my youth.  The dreams were and still are real!  So, when does youth stop?
        When is one's last voyage?  When is one's last adventure?  Many individuals would make reference to the idea of death.  They may be right!  I say they are wrong.  I can not know what was in Captain Cooks mind when he was asked by his queen to make his third voyage from England into The Pacific Ocean.  What I do know is his desire was to stay with his family.  Alas, called to duty for God and country, how can one decline? To his death on a very Big Island.....
       History has a bizzarre way of re-writing itself.  We do that as people daily.  There are few that I have met in my life that can truly say they haven't made a mistake or three.  The difference of certain mistakes are
how major are they?
       In hindsight we as a people and I mean ALL people, governments included, realize a mistake has been made!  We only realize that a mistake has been made because the conclusions of said mistake didn't get the results we had hoped for.  Borders are not necessarily a territorial boundary of radom political, racial, monetarial by definition seperation,  governments.  Plural.  Pluralsy is seperation.  I say, know!
       When one visits a foriegn country with a different language, monetary value and culture, do not open your mouth until you can understand the depth of the trouble you are in. One of my heroes, Captain James Cook, was torn apart in Hawaii.  It was his last voyage.  I have one voyage, maybe two left in me.  But then again these are different times.  I think they are worse.  I could be wrong but then, that would be my last voyage and I surely could not handle that!  ARRAGGHH!!.

Sunday, October 17, 2010

Someone who knows me

       There are a few people who know me.  There are a lot who don't.  Assholes find themselves
important.  I think assholes are really important to themselves.  Don't you?  I am overly fond of assholes and I pursue them with all my heart and soul.  A prick is a prick!  A cunt is a cunt and an asshole will never be anything other than what he is!  So be it....Kant said, " I think therefore I am " ......I say" If I am oppurtunistic, then let me take advantage of this oppertunity"!  So let us all be healthy and wealthy!  I don't see why not?  Do you? 
      Screw oil.  Fuck Jerusalem but continue to surf and love your ocean,  This is important.  Nothing else is
but this.  Love your ocean.  It is really important.  I mean this......Rip tide.........

Thursday, October 7, 2010

November 11th. 1967

        Oh, how wonderful.  A long airplane ride over a vast ocean.  A big ocean.  The Pacific Ocean.
I am 19.  I have lived in San Clemente and worked at the brand spanking new , San One'fre Nuclear reactor.  Checked out Mexico after my friend got us fired for stealing tools.  We were the first two janitors.
He was the thief.  I was/am an asshole.
        All I ever wanted was to ride very good waves.  Southern California has some real fun waves.  Kansas, Arkansas, Arizona, Wyoming don't have an ocean but they do or did have some very fine missle silos.
My dad took me to these places so that are family could live the " American Dream".  My dream was to surf
waves and enjoy a life on or near a beach.  My dad's idea was to protect our country by making me a local in places where I didn't get to have a name.  I didn't realize how important it was at the time to have an incredable amount of armed Titon Two nuclear warhead missles aimed at our enemies!  I sure do now.
         The heck with surfing and not having a name!  I'm proud to say I went to school with a guy, Jim Ryan,
from Witchata East, Kansas who fell down in the Olympics.  Topeka was very flat also.  Kansas is a place that looks like an ocean if you look at a lot of grain blowing in the wind.  And have an active imagination.
When it snows and freezes don't look for a hill to ride a tobaggon, sled or ski's!  Guess why?
          Cheyenne Wyoming is where I discovered cold!  Not cold like surfing Santa Cruz but so cold that when I spit my spittle broke into pieces when it hit the ground.  40 degrees below.  No surf but the pinball machine and bowling tried to replace my dreams of a perfect wave with me as a masterful rider and failed
horribly.  Frontier Days was great and Jack-a-lopes are fine.  I'm sure no one ever knew my name.  I was called," California ".
          Arizona and Arkansas have nothing in common.  Both states start with an A.  I mean nothing.
I've never met anyone except my sister and brother who have lived in both these states.  Why would you?
My father is buried in Tucson.  Maybe I should exume mother, who is buried in California, and re-bury her next to dad.  The weather is better in Arizona and they should be together.  The only surf in Arizona is a surf machine they built.  In Tucson every high school is named after Southern California surf towns.  It's kind of spooky!
          I land in Honolulu, Hawaii!  Can you smell the air?  Frangipane (plumaria) and an undefinable frangrance!  Youth freed without restraint for the very first time!  Unlimited possibillities.  To taste, touch
and feel a dream long awaited for.  And in the doing, discovery of myself while exploring an island and it's people.  All these years later, I still am discovering myself while exploring an island and it's people 
         All I ever wanted to be is a surfer.  I didn't plan to own a restaurant in Hanalei, Kauai. But we
did.  When I say we, I mean Jeff, his wife Sandy(my sister) and me.  Ralph Young (my friend) also
was our partner.  Equals and friends to this day.  Who would have thought that it was a possibillity that one could actually own
a resturant located in Hanalei Bay?  I don't care who speaks about all the places on Earth!  Hanalei is not only the finest wave I've ever seen or surfed but is also the most beautiful place on Earth. It might just be a memory.  Time has a way of changing what we used to know.  Tourism has a way of re-defining landscapes
in Hawaii!  Maybe the Big Island of Australia is my next Port-of-Call!  Newcastle, New South Wales -latitude 21 south!.............Maco nuts and Kona coffee, yea! 

Friday, October 1, 2010

No Wax

I asked at the store and they said," no wax"!
No pilikea.  The nearest store is only twenty-three
miles the other way through a cane field.

Someone will have some wax.  Someone
always does!  I really wish someone was here!
Billy Shea and I rubbed our boards back and forth
trying to exchange wax but because he had done the
nasty with Sheila on his board the day before, her
sun tan lotion turned the surface of my board into
a slippery slide! 

One thing worse than not having any wax is not
having a surfboard.  Especially in Hawaii.  It's
difficult to return a borrowed board to a friend
in two pieces.  I've seen that done but I found it
was easier to move to another island!  When
McCellan broke Coy's board at Hanalei he had no
problem at all returning it.  He said he was sorry.

You can tell when someone loves you because
they never say they are sorry.  Coy resined
that board back together over at Bubbie's
house.  And, " The Super Scoop" was born.

Without wax this board could not be ridden!
It was a " V".  Not a v bottom but a v as in
child's playground teeter-toter.  One had
two choices.  Ride on the front half of the board
or stall on the back half!  Soul Wevo made it
look easy and stylish.  He was so cool he rode
a wax surfboard I whittled and no one could tell
how many bars of parafin it took for me to make
it.  A week later when they found out that there would
be no wax in Hawaii for a month they asked me
nicely to move into the City of Refuge on the
Big Island.

I flatly refused.  I told them that I knew Mr. Punter.
They staccotoed, " What does that have to do with
the price of Ginseng at Ambroses"?  I countered,
" Absolutely nothing"!  Then I quickly expressed,
" But are we waxing esoteric"?  It was then that
I knew how I was going to survive this ordeal!

Mr. Punter is not only an organic farmer but a
bee man as well.  After I explained my plight he
with vigor allowed me to purchase $ 5,000
worth of honey.  It took me five days but I
was able to seperate the honey from the combs.

I went out to the Taylor hippie camp because
I knew I could score some pachuli oil.  60lbs
of bee's wax mixed with pachuli oil and Old
Spice, packaged as Sex Wax sold like hot
cakes.  This is kind of poetic in that I sold
the honey too!  Tasted great on pan cakes!
Made a lot of money but what is more
important is that I never, to this day, have
been without.  Wax on, wax off!!!

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