Just A Couple Of Friends

Alter ego? The Id....The Ego......and the Super EGO?

The Father, the Son and the Holy Spirit (Ghost)?

The Prodigal son returns to the father and we place some shrimp on the barbie?

I came, I saw, I conquered?

Triune?

Extended family?

Your guess is as good as mine?

What's there to live for?

Progeny?

Please allow me to introduce myself.........

On broadway

Get high with a little help from

Thinking is creating!

Arrghh we armed for combat, matey?

Fetch me my glass....not my eye, fool!

Let them eat what Abbos eat! Larve!

water, water everywhere, not in the Sahara

How deep is water?

How cold is snow?

Where are you, now?

Do you remember tomarrow? Yesterday?

Is is not to be confused with was was!

How about?

So much trouble with so little imput?

Pay attention to the tide! It rocks....

Ebb and flood is a bill you haven't paid!

My mind? I hope you don't.....cause I do!





Game. Know, as in no!

Dice, risky at best, probabillity factor?

No dice.....Golf! Drive for show, putt for dough!

Math is real. Coin toss.......heads I win, tails you lose.....every time!



So the three are we.

Simply, you and me, never together.

always forever alone.

Together, almost never,

Qualified, certified and hog tied

from the beginning,

two or three?

And I ask me?

Can't you sea?

Than I answered a question

that wasn't asked?
 
Forgive me nothing............

Unknown-hopefully thought provoking.

       I recommend breaking the roots of a shallow fellowship, squandered by ties that are meaningless.
When one's life is jeapordized or comprimized by a childish loyalty or fellowship bound, as if written in stone; because of a behavior and false loyalty that constricts a freedom of spirit and does place chains and constrainsts upon an exploration of freedom itself, let it go or beware.
       A friend lost, is nothing, more or less, than a new Son dawning on a today horizon.  Today one's childhood is forgotten.  Never to be remembered; no matter how hard one tries! In  rememberance is falsehood.  Despicable memories shaped by what one wished was true and buried that truth in a re-writing of a wish into
a dream that becomes stronger and more true in the lie of the telling. I say," scream"!
       Truth does not exist in shadow.  Honesty lives for light.  Captain James Cook was more than a great
Captain. History has no need of a re-write about him.  It is logged!   He knew Bly..... Captain Bly was a prick.  Great sailor, miraculous navigator, lousy Captain.
       Not everyone is designed to be great.  Recognized.  Highly regarded.  If one asked  great men how they arrived in a particular special place of enoblement or a position of respect by their peers, I promise you their uniform answer is, " I did nothing more than anyone would have done, faced with the particulars of that moment in time"!  "I am not a hero". "I am everyman and nothing more".
       My hope is that in the fiction of my life there may just be some truth to it.  Some small meaning that carries the rudiments of the love that I would pray fell upon, not just my family, but upon the family of man.
 
      
     

Sea Fever by John Masefield

Sea-Fever  By


John Masefield (1878–1967)



I must down to the seas again, to the lonely sea and the sky,

And all I ask is a tall ship and a star to steer her by,

And the wheel's kick and the wind's song and the white sail's shaking,

And a grey mist on the sea's face, and a grey dawn breaking.



I must down to the seas again, for the call of the running tide

Is a wild call and a clear call that may not be denied;

And all I ask is a windy day with the white clouds flying,

And the flung spray and the blown spume, and the sea-gulls crying.



I must down to the seas again, to the vagrant gypsy life,

To the gull's way and the whale's way where the wind's like a whetted knife;

And all I ask is a merry yarn from a laughing fellow-rover

And quiet sleep and a sweet dream when the long trick's over.

Bad Ass

      I am thrilled to have surfed many famous and at times undiscovered waves with at other times undiscovered friends.  Friendsip is earned, then given!  To ride a wave that had travelled so far to announce itself on a land mass where someone with a surfboard just happened to be waiting, with knowledge to ride this phonomenah!.....Oh!  What a joy....?  How many people know Jeff Hay?  I do.  More people know Joey Cabell and Jimmy Lucas!  Who knows  Robert Stay!  I know them all because they allowed me into a very special world called." Surfing",  Bunker Spreckles, I liked  hugely!  He was generous to a fault.  He loved rideing waves.
       Music, some drugs and an extreme desire to rip the shit out of a virgin wave that had traveled so far to break on a foriegn shore!.  Every wave, unique, original and just yours.  I can place, easily, one hundred names on this paper right now!  Many of them you may know.  Many you may not!  But I do and I will not forget the men who rode waves with me!  The surfing community is like no other, even sailing!  I will never regret dedicating my life to the ocean and riding with her, allowing my devine Mother to shape my heart and gifting me into an eternal understanding of life and love itself!  The very nature of love is written in the footprints left by your feet quickly nuetralized by the ebb and flow of the tide as you watch the sunrise as if it was the very first time!   Which it is!

Last Voyage

        When I was a youth, I thought great thoughts.  I had desires and dreams that weren't quite formulated
into substantial thoughts or directions of purpose that would establish the immaturity and immortality of my youth.  The dreams were and still are real!  So, when does youth stop?
        When is one's last voyage?  When is one's last adventure?  Many individuals would make reference to the idea of death.  They may be right!  I say they are wrong.  I can not know what was in Captain Cooks mind when he was asked by his queen to make his third voyage from England into The Pacific Ocean.  What I do know is his desire was to stay with his family.  Alas, called to duty for God and country, how can one decline? To his death on a very Big Island.....
       History has a bizzarre way of re-writing itself.  We do that as people daily.  There are few that I have met in my life that can truly say they haven't made a mistake or three.  The difference of certain mistakes are
how major are they?
       In hindsight we as a people and I mean ALL people, governments included, realize a mistake has been made!  We only realize that a mistake has been made because the conclusions of said mistake didn't get the results we had hoped for.  Borders are not necessarily a territorial boundary of radom political, racial, monetarial by definition seperation,  governments.  Plural.  Pluralsy is seperation.  I say, know!
       When one visits a foriegn country with a different language, monetary value and culture, do not open your mouth until you can understand the depth of the trouble you are in. One of my heroes, Captain James Cook, was torn apart in Hawaii.  It was his last voyage.  I have one voyage, maybe two left in me.  But then again these are different times.  I think they are worse.  I could be wrong but then, that would be my last voyage and I surely could not handle that!  ARRAGGHH!!.

Someone who knows me

       There are a few people who know me.  There are a lot who don't.  Assholes find themselves
important.  I think assholes are really important to themselves.  Don't you?  I am overly fond of assholes and I pursue them with all my heart and soul.  A prick is a prick!  A cunt is a cunt and an asshole will never be anything other than what he is!  So be it....Kant said, " I think therefore I am " ......I say" If I am oppurtunistic, then let me take advantage of this oppertunity"!  So let us all be healthy and wealthy!  I don't see why not?  Do you? 
      Screw oil.  Fuck Jerusalem but continue to surf and love your ocean,  This is important.  Nothing else is
but this.  Love your ocean.  It is really important.  I mean this......Rip tide.........

November 11th. 1967

        Oh, how wonderful.  A long airplane ride over a vast ocean.  A big ocean.  The Pacific Ocean.
I am 19.  I have lived in San Clemente and worked at the brand spanking new , San One'fre Nuclear reactor.  Checked out Mexico after my friend got us fired for stealing tools.  We were the first two janitors.
He was the thief.  I was/am an asshole.
        All I ever wanted was to ride very good waves.  Southern California has some real fun waves.  Kansas, Arkansas, Arizona, Wyoming don't have an ocean but they do or did have some very fine missle silos.
My dad took me to these places so that are family could live the " American Dream".  My dream was to surf
waves and enjoy a life on or near a beach.  My dad's idea was to protect our country by making me a local in places where I didn't get to have a name.  I didn't realize how important it was at the time to have an incredable amount of armed Titon Two nuclear warhead missles aimed at our enemies!  I sure do now.
         The heck with surfing and not having a name!  I'm proud to say I went to school with a guy, Jim Ryan,
from Witchata East, Kansas who fell down in the Olympics.  Topeka was very flat also.  Kansas is a place that looks like an ocean if you look at a lot of grain blowing in the wind.  And have an active imagination.
When it snows and freezes don't look for a hill to ride a tobaggon, sled or ski's!  Guess why?
          Cheyenne Wyoming is where I discovered cold!  Not cold like surfing Santa Cruz but so cold that when I spit my spittle broke into pieces when it hit the ground.  40 degrees below.  No surf but the pinball machine and bowling tried to replace my dreams of a perfect wave with me as a masterful rider and failed
horribly.  Frontier Days was great and Jack-a-lopes are fine.  I'm sure no one ever knew my name.  I was called," California ".
          Arizona and Arkansas have nothing in common.  Both states start with an A.  I mean nothing.
I've never met anyone except my sister and brother who have lived in both these states.  Why would you?
My father is buried in Tucson.  Maybe I should exume mother, who is buried in California, and re-bury her next to dad.  The weather is better in Arizona and they should be together.  The only surf in Arizona is a surf machine they built.  In Tucson every high school is named after Southern California surf towns.  It's kind of spooky!
          I land in Honolulu, Hawaii!  Can you smell the air?  Frangipane (plumaria) and an undefinable frangrance!  Youth freed without restraint for the very first time!  Unlimited possibillities.  To taste, touch
and feel a dream long awaited for.  And in the doing, discovery of myself while exploring an island and it's people.  All these years later, I still am discovering myself while exploring an island and it's people 
         All I ever wanted to be is a surfer.  I didn't plan to own a restaurant in Hanalei, Kauai. But we
did.  When I say we, I mean Jeff, his wife Sandy(my sister) and me.  Ralph Young (my friend) also
was our partner.  Equals and friends to this day.  Who would have thought that it was a possibillity that one could actually own
a resturant located in Hanalei Bay?  I don't care who speaks about all the places on Earth!  Hanalei is not only the finest wave I've ever seen or surfed but is also the most beautiful place on Earth. It might just be a memory.  Time has a way of changing what we used to know.  Tourism has a way of re-defining landscapes
in Hawaii!  Maybe the Big Island of Australia is my next Port-of-Call!  Newcastle, New South Wales -latitude 21 south!.............Maco nuts and Kona coffee, yea!